Audrey's Webpage

Welcome to Little Si, North Bend, WA

Little Si is located about 30 miles east of Seattle off of the interstate 90. It's climbing nickname is called Exit 32 because that is the exit you take to get to the cliff. One of the walls tucked inside Little Si mountain is called World Wall I. You can't miss the cliff if you hike up the trail about 30 minutes.

I've been coming to this wall now and again over the years because it is the closest and most easily accessible cliff to me. It's not really high in elevation but because of the forestation it can be cooler in the summer, though the cliff does face east so mind the morning sun. In the summer, if the sun is shining the cliff is impossible to climb on, mostly because you sweat yourself off or the sun is baking you enough that you are in too much pain to continue. But once the sun leaves the cliff around noon, you can enjoy a pleasant day of climbing.

World Wall I has seen variable interest over the years. The locals lose interest some years and regain interest in others. Therefore, the cliff can be overwhelmingly crowded or nearly empty most days. The main wall has a fair number of routes on it, ranging from 5.9 to 5.14. There are about 16 distinct lines that start up from the base. A good chunck of the main lines on the main wall have a number of extensions off of them. From my experience, this wall has notoriously seen a lack of concensus in the guidebooks on the exact lines that exist, the number of bolts on the lines and the extensions and the grades.

My hope here is to help guide you through the misinformation and clear up at least the routes that I understand at this point. If you climb at this wall or ever find yourself here, you may benefit from this update. If you discover any misinformation in my details, let me know!

To start, Bryan Burdo was a key contributor to the area many years ago. I won't do justice to the many historical writeups that have been written about the place, suffice it to say that I have come to rely on and trust Bryan's judgement on the routes and grades. If you want to learn about the history of the place, pick up a local copy of an Exit 32 guide book (by Garth Bruce), which was compiled with consultation of the likes of Bryan and others.

I'll start with some extensions and compile as I go....since I haven't done every route on the wall, there are lines I will trust to the guide book. But, for the ones I've done, I can share some information that may be missing. If you have any questions, please email me at asniezek [ at] gmail . com.

Routes go from Right to Left from the approach.

Route	Grade	Stars	Bolts	Beta
Jealous God	5.12a	***	5	60m Rope to lower.
Graven Image	5.12c	***	7	bouldery extension to 'False Idol.' 2 fixed gear in the roof. Chain links, no fixed gear, at the anchors. 60m rope is plenty.
False Idol	5.11d	***	7	2 fixed gear in the roof. Presumably, this climb ends at the fixed gear in the roof.
Disincarnate	5.11a	***	7	Atypical steep climbing for this wall. Fun pockets and a techy finish. No fixed gear (i.e 7 draws + 2 for the anchors). Chain links at the anchors.
Opening Act	5.9	**	6	60m rope to lower. Belayers be careful not to back off the belay ledge.
End of The World	5.9	*	12	Awkward and I think something broke up there in recent years.
Judgement Day	5.12c	***	11	Climb Girls in the Gym (book shows starting on opening act, but I think it's more fun this other way and does not change the grade), then bust right through a steep section of wall to finish on anchors of End of The World. A fun, bouldery climb. 70m rope to lower.
Judgement Day Direct	5.12d	***	12	Start same as Judgment Day, but climb straight into it above the Opening Act anchors (start on Opening Act or Girls in the Gym). 70m rope to lower.
Girls in the Gym	5.10c	***	8	Quick links at the anchors
Hang it out to Dry	5.12b	***	11	2 fixed draws in the crux below the chains, fixed lockers at the anchors
Rainy Day Woman	5.12a	****	12	Fixed lockers at the anchors.
Deluge	5.12a/b	***	16	Fixed biners at the anchors, continue up Rainy Day Woman to finish at the anchors of Hydrophobia. 70m rope to lower without re-threading, mind the rope drag if top roping.
Hydrophobia	5.12c	***	14	Perma-draws on the entire route with fixed biners at the anchors, branch off up and left at the last bolt, after the final crux, on Rainy Day Woman. 70m rope to lower.
Viagro	5.12b	**	10	Fixed biners at the anchors.
Viagrophobia	5.12d	***	13	Climb Viagro into Hydrophobia. Fixed biners at the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
Son of Jesus	5.10c;	****	10	Fixed biners at the anchors (note, this keeps changing over the years but these have remained in recent time).60m rope.
Vudu Guru	5.11c;	****	18	Chains at the anchors. Re-thread at Son of Jesus anchors. Minimum 80m rope for this route. 70m will not get you to the ground!
Devil's Advocate	5.9	**	4	The first bolt is a little awkward, have a spotter or stick clip the first bolt for safety. Chains at the anchor. 60m rope to lower is plenty.
Oedipal Complex	5.12b	*	6	The bolts look rusty at the start, stick clip the first 2 for safety, ends on Reptiles and Amphetamines. 60m rope to lower is plenty.
Oval Orifice	5.13a	**	17	70m rope to lower.
Reptiles and Amphetamines	5.9	****	4	The obvious flake at the top of the ramp. Fixed biners at the anchors (note, this keeps changing over the years but these have remained in recent time). 60m rope to lower is plenty.
Dr. Evil	5.14a	****	11	Perma-draws on the entire route, Open hooks at anchors - do not Top Rope! Starts on Chronic for 2 bolts, then transitions right at the 3rd. 70m rope to lower.
Chronic	5.13b	****	11	Fixed draws, including on the anchor; starts to the left of Reptiles and Amphetimines. It's the last obvious line up the ramp before heading down to Aborigine. 60m rope to lower
Lizard Prince	5.13b	**	2	Continue straight up from the Chronic anchors, fixed gear at the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
Lizard King	5.13c	***	4	Fixed draws only at the anchors. Continues straight up from Lizard Prince anchors. 170ft of climbing. Re-thread and rappel from Lizard Prince or Chronic anchors.
Extended Illness	5.13c	***	5	Perma draws to the anchors of Lizard Prince. This line cuts right at the 10th bolt of Chronic. Climb up and right around a bulge.
Californicator	5.12d	***	9	Perma draws on the entire route with chains with fixed biners on the anchors, shared with Aborigine. 60m rope.
Californication	5.12d/5.13a	***	4	Continue up Technorigine on perma draws on the entire route and chains with fixed biners on the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
Pornification	5.14a	***	8	This links Californicator into Porn Star. Perma draws on the entire route with fixed biners at the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
Wide World of Fitness	5.14b	***	21	This route starts on Californicator, climbs into Porn Star, traverses into Flatliner, then finishes on Lost Horizons. Perma draws on the entire route with fixed biners at the anchors. 100m rope? Best to re-thread at the Psychosomatic anchors.
Aborigine	5.11b	**	8	Trickier low crux if you are short (tall people love this climb!). Perma draws on the entire route and fixed gear at the anchors. 60m rope will get you down.
Technorigine	5.12c	****	4	bouldery extension to 'Abo.' Perma draws on the entire route and fixed biners at the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
Extendorigine	5.12c	***	4	3rd extension to 'Abo.' Goes to the top of the wall. One fixed biner at the anchors, no fixed gear. Well spaced bolts. 70m won't make it to the ground. Recommend re-thread at the Techno anchors.
Porn Star	5.13d	****	16	Perma draws and fixed biners at the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
Whore of Babylon	5.14b	**	15	This route starts Aborigine then trends left and continues up a seam and finishes on Porn Star. Perma draws on the entire route. 70m rope to lower.
New World Order	5.14c	**	20	This route starts Aborigine then trends left into Whore of Babylon and continues up a seam and into Porn Star, then finishes on Wide World of Fitness. 100m rope? Best to re-thread at the Psychosomatic anchors.
Psycho wussy	5.11b	***	6	Scramble left to achieve a higher ledge and avoid the scary start. Chains with fixed biners at the anchors. Currently there are fixed draws at the start and in the crux. 60m rope to lower.
Psychosomatic	5.12d	****	10	Extension to Psycho wussy; Perma draws on the extension and fixed biners at the anchors.
Flatliner	5.13c	***	4	Extension to Psychosomatic. Perma draws on the extenstion with fixed biners at the anchors. Shares anchors with Porn Star. 70m rope to lower.
Lost Horizons	5.14a/b	***	4	Extension to Flat Liner: at the flat liner crux, mid-crux, transition leftward then start up and continue to top of wall. Perma draws and fixed slings on the entire route with fixed biners at the anchors. Crux sling replaced with Metolius yellow webbing in 2014. >80m rope to lower. Best to re-thread at Psychosomatic anchors.
Gerbil Killer	5.13a	**	7	Starts left of 'Psycho Wussy' and climbs into the crux of 'Psychosomatic.' Currently there is a perma draw in the crux of Gerbil Killer and perma draws on Psychosomatic with fixed biners at the anchors.
Propaganda	5.12c	****	9	Sustained, stiff for the grade. Perma draws on the entire route with fixed biners at the anchors. Take one draw for first bolt off the ledge, it can be back cleaned on the way up. There is a bolt before the anchors that is typically skipped. 60m rope to lower to the upper ledge if belaying from upper ledge as well; Best to use a 70m rope to lower to the lower ledge.
Black Ice	5.13b	****	4	Solid 35m of climbing. My 70m Sterling Rope just makes it to the ground. Perma draws and fixed biners at the anchors.
Bust the move	5.12a	**	7	Perma draw at the crux with fixed biners at the anchors. 60m rope to lower to the upper ledge if belaying from upper ledge as well; best to use a 70m rope to lower to the lower ledge.
Sweet Tooth	5.12a	**	9	First route on the upper wall, starts in a small corner right of Megatherion. The first crux may be height dependent, stiffer (to impossible) the shorter you are. This climb joins the last bolts and finishes on the same anchors as Megatherion. Fixed biners at the anchors. I have not tried a 60m rope on this. 70m is plenty to lower.
Megatherion	5.11b	****	15	. Fixed biners at the anchors. 70m rope to lower.
The Bad Guy	5.11c	***	8	Fixed biners at the anchors. 60m rope to lower. It gets 3 stars because the last 2 bolts worth of climbing is super fun.
Black is All We Feel	5.13a	**	6	The first bolt is placed a bit high for a short person. Stick clip for safety if placing the first draw. Tread carefully, otherwise.